November 19, 2005Islamabad, Pakistan
[Editor's note:] Ben MacDonald, 23, of Raeford, NC, accepted, apparently eagerly and without second thought, an invitation extended by Lauren Mueenuddin to travel to Pakistan to assist in relief efforts organized immediately after the massive earthquake in its northern territories. Lauren and her husband Tamur Mueenuddin work in the field of international heath in Pakistan.
(Ben and Holly, his mother, not his girl friend.)
He cajoled the University of North Carolina in Asheville, NC to accept this 'mission' as the last requirement for his degree, sub-let his apartment, said goodbye to friends, and packed his gear.
His parents, Holly and Ken, took a big breath and put him on the plane in Raleigh, NC, on Sunday November 11, with much trepidation, some because Ben had no visa, only the promise by Azir Tamir, of Pakistani International Airlines, who existed only as a muffled telephone voice, of a meeting at JFK airport at which he would 'arrange' every thing. Mr Tamir assured Ben that while he would be boarded with no visa, one would be waiting in Islamabad.
The counter clerk expressed total disbelief when presented the naive notion that a passenger bound for Pakistan expected to board with no visa. Only the arrival of Mr Tamir, at Ben's frantic cell phone call urgings, and the fortuitous intervention of two influential fellow passengers prevented him from being left sitting defeated by the 'fates' in the departure hall. Upon arrival in Islamabad, a visa issued promptly, Mr Tamir's promise fulfilled, Ben was picked up and whisked away by Lauren and his grand aunt Katherine Ingram to the F-6/3 district of Islamabad.
Here's how 'great aunt' Katherine described his arrival:
"He arrived last night and it seemed that he was very glad to find us at the arrival gate. It is always daunting to arrive in a Pakistani airport, because there are huge crowds of men (mostly) waiting for the arrival of relatives from far away places. Lauren and I felt the same way, waiting for our long awaited family member -Ben- arriving from New York. We had only to wait an hour, the flights are often late, and we were very glad to welcome Ben. We took him home in the car driven by 'Mufafa,' Liam's name for Mustafa, the trusted driver/cook/babysitter. Mustafa was wearing his turban and shawl... cutting a fine, exotic figure. We gave Ben a tour of the house, heated up some dahl and rice, chatted until 2:00 am and offered him a pill and put him to bed. "
And here are Ben's initial thoughts:
"Before I left for Pakistan, I tried to prepare myself mentally for what I would encounter.
What a futile effort!
The morning after I arrived in Islamabad, Katherine, Josh (a young English 18 year old, a nephew of a close friend of Lauren's from Washington, DC) and I went with Hamid, an English-speaking Pakistani man that Katherine met at a mental heath workshop, to take a load of blankets and floor mats to the H-10 camp in Islamabad. The camp, which is the largest in the city, is laid out like a small city with a network of narrow, dusty roads connecting block after block of canvas tents staked out on the bare ground. I couldn't get an official figure, but the guards I spoke with said there were at least 10,000 people in this one camp alone.
As soon as we got out of the car, we were surrounded by a crowd of people anxious for anything we had. At that point we only had about 5-10 blankets and maybe 10 mats to give out. Our immediate problem, then, was trying to figure out who, out of all these people, needed the few supplies that we had the most.
With Hamid's help, we found several women who had just delivered babies while in the camp, so we gave them most of the supplies that we had. Before long, however, chaos broke out around us. Once people realized what we were up to, they flocked around us, every person reaching out with eager hands. The few items we had left disappeared in a matter of seconds, and we had to jump back in the car to avoid being injured by the mob. Thus, we learned very quickly that we'd need to devise a better, more organized plan for delivering supplies.
The next day, Katherine and I went with Hamid back to the H-10 camp, this time to get a better assessment of the people's needs. On this second trip we didn't take any supplies with us, so we were actually able to spend some time talking with the people living in the camp. The stories that people told were unfathomable.
One woman we spoke with lost six children in the earthquake.
Six children!
She said that of her two children who did survive, one was still in the hospital after having both legs amputated, and the other was living with her in the camp. Such stories are tragically common throughout the camp.
As we walked from one tent to another, the women stood silently in the doorways with infants on their hips and small children tugging at their skirts. Men gathered around giant cooking pots, trying to cook enough food to feed everyone in the camp. Even seeing it first hand, it is hard to comprehend the loss that these people have endured.
I can't do it. I try, but I cannot.
Every evening I have gone home to a comfortable house knowing that the people I care about are safe and sound. It's something we take for granted.
Despite the extent of the devastation, the people's spirits seemed amazingly intact. In spite of everything, children still ran around the streets laughing and flying their homemade kites. It was a true testament to the resilience of the human spirit.
Because the H-10 camp is in Islamabad, the conditions are much better there than in the camps in the northern mountains. Although they don't have much at all, they are being supplied with the basic needs essential for survival.Therefore, Katherine, Hamid and I decided to focus our resources on the people in the northern mountains, where the conditions are far, far worse.

So, after leaving H-10, we went to the market and placed an order for 100 foam mattresses, 100 heavy shawls, and 200 polyester filled blankets. We have hired two trucks (and we're talking about hiring a third) to take the supplies to Mansehra next Thursday, and Katherine, Josh, Hamid and myself are going to follow the trucks up north to ensure that they are properly delivered and distributed.
This time, however, we are going to let a specific government agency (essentially, their equivalent of a health department) pass out the supplies for us, so as to avoid the mob scene that we experienced in the H-10 camp.
As of right now, the first snows have not yet started falling in the mountains, but they could come at any time. Thus, we have a small window of opportunity to do as much as we can while the weather conditions are still somewhat favorable. After the snows begin, the situation will become exponentially worse. So, we're hoping to do as much as we can as quickly as possible.
Lauren Left yesterday to join Tamur in the mountains. Tamur works for UNICEF and is the emergency relief coordinator in the Kaghan Valley. Lauren is consulting for the NGO, PSI, of Washington, DC, assessing the requirements for water purification and sanitary systems to serve the large tent camps there. (see a description of the conditions in the tent camps.) I know that she was glad to be able to get out in the field. They are both incredibly devoted to helping the people affected by this catastrophe, and the work that they are doing is amazing. Tamur has been gone since the earthquake happened, and from what I can tell he's personally spearheading much of the relief effort. I admire them both for their commitment to the work they do. If you look at the big picture, it's really overwhelming.
Thus, I think all that anyone can do is take it step by step, one day at a time, and slowly progress will be made. It's going to take the support of the entire world though. Every little bit helps, every penny, every hand and every mind. No amount of support is too small, and to everyone who reads this I extend a call to action. Please."

